it’s only just begun

reflections whilst in vietnam

There’s nothing better than the scent of Vietnam- a mixture of monsoon winds and rain, rotting vegetables, thick clouds of cigarette smoke, daylight humidity, the pungent ripeness of durian, tropicalia, and the red sun overhead.  it’s distinct, perhaps the most distinct scent that I can associate with a physical place, and it’s memorable.  The past three weeks have opened more doors than I initially expected.  From recognizing the importance that family holds for me, to understanding that wanderlust is only something that has seeped into my bloodstream- it will be permanently plaguing, but that’s ok, I think I can handle it.

I’ll miss my family here, much more than I expected.  From the very beginning of this trip they welcomed me with open arms and huge grins, granted they had never known my father, and it’s been a long time in the making since I came here, but I felt comfortable quickly.  From the beautiful breakfasts of cold meat and banh mi, to the motorbike rides around Phu Giao, Saigon, and Binh Phuoc, I can’t begin to describe how happy these past few weeks have made me.  Despite mere moments of heat exhaustion, sleep deprivation, and being too full to stand, I’ve reveled in everything that Vietnam has offered me.

Last night was one of the most moving experiences I have had in a while.  A going away dinner at my uncle Thanh’s, where we ate sandwiches, drank American beer, looked at the stars, played with puppies, and enjoyed one another’s company.  I was serenaded by a chorus of voices, telling me that Vietnam is forever (despite it’s communist message, I find myself agreeing with the sentiment) and we drank to the country that has brought us all happiness in the past three weeks.  Then driving through the deserted park and getting late night coffee with my good friend Ngoc was also meaningful.  Neither of us can communicate with one another besides with our facial expressions- and after listening to bad karaoke, drinking ca phe sua da, and the banana smoothie I’ve been waiting for since April30th, we drove around Phu Giao for the last time.  I was bid farewell by another mixie who, despite only knowing me for less than a week, gave me one of the most heartfelt goodbyes I’ve ever received.  Hospitality here is beyond what westerners can comprehend- but only if you allow yourself to experience said hospitality.

The days have been completely saturated with heat and sun, sometimes unbearable, but always appreciated.  Spending time in Hue and Da Nang also brought about a plethora of new experiences.  Thien Mu Pagoda in Huế was one of the more memorable places.  I met a Mahayan Monk there, who, for lack of better terms, was absolutely magnificent.  He spoke no English, but told me to learn Vietnamese.  His dedication to his calling in life was incredibly inspirational and moving at the same time.  The other experience that was particularly meaningful was on the river in Hue.  We were riding a dragon boat in the middle of the evening when some small children rowed up beside us asking for money.  While it’s typical for kids to be great scam artists, these children were just so authentic.  I couldn’t tear my eyes away from their sad faces, and this only made me more grateful for the life I lead.  After sending them off with some money and cake, I couldn’t stop thinking about them, about their futures, about the fact that they are being deprived of so much.  My uncle told me the money we gave them would buy them enough food for a week, but even then, I still am saddened by the state of the world.

There’s really too much to reflect on in a single post.  My bags are packed, only a few goodbyes said, and tears have been shed.  I will miss this country, my family, and the culture.  I’m sure it won’t be long until I return however.

More reflections to come…

shiiiiiit! so good.

seule vie

it’s been two weeks since i’ve arrived in my homeland, and i can’t even begin to convey how beautiful everything is.  from the greetings i received from family members whom i’d never met, to the eastern coastline, vietnam has exceeded every expectation i had before my arrival.  days have come and gone so quickly- most mornings begin with banh mi and cold meats (not to be confused with the sandwich, banh mi thiet) or pho bo, and always fresh squeezed orange juice and iced coffee with condensed milk.  from there, a good lounge in the hammock follows, while we wait for the temperatures to drop a few degrees.  market trips, burial sites, 15 heinekens before 11am, hue, da nang, riding elephants, riding ponies, petting monkeys, visiting temples, befriending monks, going to the beauty shop, dam soi, phu giao, banh xeo, tiger beer, siestas, co.op, wonderfully long email threads, bear bile shots, duck embryos, stolen toast, di minh level freakouts, wanna fanta, boho skirts, and truly truly truly beautiful compliments, are only the tip of the iceberg.

i’ve learned a lot about myself.  though i did, in part, expect some closure in terms of my father’s death, i haven’t found any.  i’ve only opened more doors which have led to more complications.  family politics, stifled emotions, feeling more myself than ever, drowning in seas of obsolete cacophony.  i want to divulge newfound discoveries, but i cannot even begin to articulate them.  so much has come undone, but so much has been tied up neatly.  it’s a mixed bag.  i don’t know how else to phrase it.  i’ve found myself missing very few things from back home- mainly, a few folks, bard coffee, burgers, yoga pants, work (wtf), and felines.  wine too.  oh, what i’d do for a nice bottle of chilled riesling right now.  alas, all i have at my disposal is heineken… what’s a girl to do?

just a few snap shots i’ve decided to share…

until i’m back in america,

enfin

ciao ciao ciao– meow meow meow.

last tom waits sunday for a while.  so i thought this was appropriate:

adieu, adieu.

i’ll never let you sweep me off my feet

so much to do from now until monday at 5am.  dormir et rever? c’est impossible.  can’t wait to be teased by 90 degree weather for three weeks.  ho chi minh city? here i come.  more and more details of my trip continue to arrive.  cao dai temples, mekong delta, hanoi, statues of buddha, monsoon season, burial sites, family gatherings.  can’t say there’s much else i’d want to do for the next three weeks.  arrivederci us of a.
and here are a bunch of subscripts for a select few:
M: I can’t wait until we can reunite.  Bon Voyage and good luck in England.  We’ll have a patio meal and an early morning adventure upon both of our arrivals back to New England.
Evening jungle games upon my return? Croquet included.  And some confections with Johnny Depp as well.  For real this time.
We form a tarot pack and I’m aware of that.
PS: farewell forever institutionalized learning.

16 10 N, 107 50 E

I’m a bad blogger.  And I don’t care.  This past spring has been ridiculously busy, which has been good for me.  There was certainly a brief hiatus in my journey of introspection, though it has quite recently started again, which is fine in all truth.  I’ve found myself feeling a wide range of things, allowing me to feel more alive than usual.  But I’ve also been disconnected.  From people, from myself, from this place.  And I’ve had no qualms in that regard.

6 days until I leave for Vietnam.  I’m incredibly excited to see a new part of the world, one that is a huge part of who I am.  The journeys that I’ll have over there will always have a place in my mind, and I can’t wait to reflect on them upon my return back to the United States.  In the next 6 days there’s a good deal that I would like to do, but unfortunately I have a serious issue with procrastination.  Maybe I’ll just run on empty until then? That’s fine by me.

In terms of other things- I’m feeling finicky.  I’m content, but I’m not.  I’m tired, but I’m not.  I’m bored, but I’m not.  I guess, when it boils down to it, I’m okay, and that’s all I ever expect to be.  I’ve found myself in nice places and in nice company for the past month or so, and I suppose that’s all that matters.  As long as life continues to provide me with small pleasures, like coffee during the morning, and reading novels in stairwells, I’ll be happy.  It’s not people that give me that, it’s my own experiences that offer the feeling of contentedness.  But so it goes.

Summer is also right around the corner which is a great thing in and of itself.  I’m ready to be relaxed for once.  I’m ready to find a new home with my new roomate.  I’m ready to leave most of this shit behind and do what I enjoy doing.  Working non-stop, doing more cloak & dagger underground dinners.  Nighttime croquet.  Things that make me happy.

You know what a really great combination is? The best American Sparkling and some Friederich Nietzsche.

mmmmmmmmmmm !

si heureux. il est presque l’heure d’été.

How do cats end a fight? They hiss and make up.

if only

people could disappear.  womp womp womp.  i’d much prefer my earrings didn’t get ripped out, k-thanks.

stupid mondays making me glum, guess that will just have to be cured by a little visit for some grits with butter?

PS: don’t go to boda unless you want to get violently ill after.

21 days, motherfuckers.

this is nothing.

mmmm…

 

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.